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The Chief and I

By Neville Cole

I’m staring at Christo. Christo is staring at me. We are spending a long time staring. That shit Christo gave me was stra-wrong! I am buzzed. I am brazen. I am going to find out what is up with this guy once and for all. Only problem is…Christo has beaten me to the punch.

“You don’t like me, do you, my friend?” he asks with more than a hint of a smile.

“I don’t even know you…my friend…” I reply, while sporting a Woody Allen smirk.

“The easiest thing in the world is to not like someone you don’t know,” Christo notes and I have to admit it is a pretty profound reply.

“Indeed” I add in an outrageously fake British accent.

“So,” he says. “What is the problem, exactly? Is all this just because I won’t tell you the name my parents called me? You can call me anything you want, you know. I don’t mind. I’ll answer to it all.”

“What’s your story?” I suddenly blurt out, cutting him off mid-sentence.

“I told you my story the first night we met, my friend.”

“Yeah, I remember,” I say defiantly. “But see, the problem is, at the time I didn’t believe you…and now, I really don’t believe you. You are up to something. Thanks for the help with the hippo, by the way. That bloody thing was pretty pissed off wasn’t it?” I am clearly struggling to maintain a single line of thought and Christo, equally clearly, has noticed. He sits back, smiling benevolently; that is, until I move the discussion in a direction he isn’t willing to go.

“So what was your deal in Entebbe, anyway? Why the disappearing act?”

“Let’s just say,” Christo says, shifting slightly in his seat, “I’m not the passport and visa type and leave it at that.”

“Fine by me,” I say smugly. “No skin off my nose,” I add. “I was… just curious. What were we talking about again?”

Christo laughs. I laugh. I can’t stop laughing. I am laughing so hard it is difficult to catch a breath. Cristo stands up and leans out over the balcony. He calls out in Swahili to a waiter standing down by the pool. The man turns and calls back. They carry on a short conversation at during which I am able to make out the last two words: Asante sana or thank you very much.

“What was that all about?” I ask, finally suppressing my laugh attack.

“I’ve made dinner plans for us,” Christo replies.

“I was planning to get some room service and pass out pretty soon.”

“What? Room service? When there’s a real live party just down the street? Are you crazy? Come on, man? You’re in Africa. Where’s you sense of adventure?”

At that Christo springs like a wild cat from the patio to the branch of study-looking tree a few feet from us. Then, in one fluid motion he reaches down, grab the branch with his hands and slips lightly down to solid ground. I applaud generously and mime holding up a scorecard: “9.2 from the Australian judge.”

“Come on, Neville,” he laughs “Stop being such a damned colonial and come see the real Africa. I promise you won’t regret it.”

“Alright,” I finally relent, “but I’m going to use the door if you don’t mind.”

“Fine by me, Christo hoots; “but don’t blame me if you get gored by a hippo going back that way!”

Despite his warning, I am not stoned enough to even consider making the leap from the balcony and instead choose to quietly and quickly take a dash through the hippo fields.

Before I have time to reconsider my evening plans, Christo and I have left the hotel premises and are heading down a dark, muddy path into the noisy jungle of dusk. I realize I am in for the evening now because there is no way I am wandering back this way in the middle of the night alone. Many a midnight wanderer in East Africa ends up as lion food. Of course, here in Uganda, Idi Amin’s troops slaughtered virtually every lion years ago so I assume we are reasonably safe for now.

“So, what kind of party is this exactly?” I ask as we march along in file.”

“What day is it today?” Christo asks in return.

“Ah…Wednesday,” I answer without much certainty.

“Oh, good. Then you are going to see what a Wednesday party is like. By the way, do you have a few shillings we can toss in the kitty? You cannot turn up at an African party empty-handed.”

At the edge of some pretty dense jungle we come across a small clearing with a small stage at the far end and a large cooking fire by the entrance. There are four poles, strung with lights at each corner of the clearing. The lights, high up the poles, do little more than create an eerie glow while the cooking fire manages to throw a few flickering shadows across the ground and up into the surrounding trees.

I make my presence known right away by tripping over dinner. A still bloody, skinned goat lays only a few steps inside the entrance; but apparently I am the only person in attendance who didn’t expect it to be there. In my defense, I was somewhat distracted by the gutted impala hanging from a rack nearby and the sight of impala stew already bubbling in the cooking pot.

Christo steps surely around the goat carcass and walks immediately up to a wrinkled old man standing by a couple of dozen crates of beer. Christo talks to the old man for a minute or two, occasionally gesturing in my direction, then I see him hand the old man my shillings. After that the old man walks over to a strikingly tall man carrying a staff and wearing in a large animal skin cape. The old man points first to Christo and them to me. The man in the cape nods his head and the old man and waves to Christo. Christo, in turn, gestures to me to come join them.

“Neville,” he says happily, “this is the Chief. I explained to him how far you have travelled to be here tonight and offered him your gift. He wants us to enjoy ourselves and be guests at his party.”

“Asante,” I say to the Chief. “Asante sana.”

The Chief says something to Chriso. I can only make out the word Karibu, welcome.

“He says you are most welcome. He also says that he is sorry he did not know you were coming tonight from so far away or he would have made some special plans.”

I immediately blurt out the only other Swahili I know: “Hakuna matata!”

As soon as that wonderful phrase leaves my lips I wonder if it is appropriate to say “no worries” to a tribal chief; but before I can even complete my thought the Chief doubles over with laughter and most of the gathered crowd laughs and chatters as well.

“The chief says you are welcome in his village any time of the day or night,” Christo says smiling. “I guess you won him over you damn Aussie. What is it with you people? Does anyone in this world not love Australians?”

NEXT UP: PARTY: UGANDA STYLE