Tags
Beechworth, La Cantina Winery, Milawa, Myrtleford, North East Victoria, Tempranillo, Yackanandah
Story by Vivienne – of Course
An old school pal of mine regularly visits us over Christmas/New Year but this time we decided to get a cabin near Beechworth and tour from there. As it turned out I was to be the itinerary designer and driver. Being driver meant I had to avoid mountains and stick to the valleys (I’m no good at heights of any kind). So I spent considerable time poring over maps and reading up on what was where and when open.
We met up at the cabins on time and unpacked and headed off to the famous Stanley Pub for lunch. The day was New Year’s Eve which unfortunately meant that their usual flash lunch menu was downgraded as they were preparing for a bumper party later that day (who would have thought). Fortunately we still scored well and had excellent fish and chips!
The next day we headed in the direction of the also famous Milawa district. I managed to get us to the Milawa Cheese Factory and the last remaining park in a bit of shade. The first stop was a cheese tasting which turned out to be excellent and not stingy. I knew some of their cheeses but there were so many more including goat. We also had tastings of local jams and chutneys.
The place was busy so we moved out to the attached wine tasting room of Wood Park Wines. Very pleasant and quiet with an attentive chap only too happy have a chat (everyone was having lunch next door). I have now discovered a lovely ‘new’ summer red – Tempranillo. It is rather Italian (as are most of the wineries in the area of the King Valley) and I thought ideal as a chilled drop. He agreed.
I decided to buy a few bottles and one each of two other reds. Lucky me as he packed them in a 6 pack box and gave me an extra bottle for no charge. We then toddled over to the restaurant and ate outdoors at the Cheese Factory – nicely cooked tucker but nothing special. They were run off their feet with families (accompanied by their dogs too). Then back to the cheese counter to make some purchases and into the cooler bag in the car. Overall it was most enjoyable.
Next stop that same day was to find La Cantina winery which make proper preservative free wine – my friend was in desperate need of supplies. After a couple of circular drives when I missed the turn off twice we finally headed in the right direction (having stopped to get said directions at an olive speciality outlet).
Ah, we see the winery and the sign is out at the front. Pull in but no sign of life. Get out of car anyway and then a lovely old chap comes out and opens up the tasting room. A building which he built himself – all wonderful stone work and huge solid wooden benches. Just him and us and a lot of wine tasting for my friend. She rewarded him with a $510 purchase. Car boot rather full by now. We managed to get back to our cabin with no detours. The countryside was lovely and the weather remained perfect.
The next day we did Yackandandah and had a delightful lunch at the Sticky Tarts, bought some Lavender products and some gifts at the Buddha Shop (run by a couple of lovely gay guys who also organise their annual festival). Back to the cabin for a freshen up and change of clothes for we were off to Provenance restaurant for dinner.
Provenance is a Hatted restaurant and fortunately I had booked for us before Christmas. They were booked out. People actually were dressed up and were serious eaters. A la carte or degustation and a huge wine list. We decided not to have the degustation as it looked seriously like it would have been a bit much. Well, the food was divine. The offer of house bread came with what I found out was curds (from Myrtleford Butter Factory) – it was glorious.
Then I had the pickled vegetables for starters (yum) and then on to an entrée of smoked quail and pea puree. It came with walnuts and another sauce. I was speechless – the smoked quail was unique and to die for. The pea puree was something else. A slightly wobbly square of slightly green stuff which tasted like it must have had a lot of butter and cream in it but was out of this world. Next I went for the snapper with various just cooked vegetables served with dashi. Lovely and I could only just finish it. I also had Tempranillo wine during all this. The extraordinary thing was that the whole bill did not shock – just over $150 for the two of us.
Next day we headed off to the Myrtleford Butter Factory. A lovely building which sat doing nothing for decades. A local women finally decided to buy it, do some restoration work and open up a restaurant. She then decided to make butter as well. It is a lovely story of her dedication and she is still making improvements.
We had a butter and curd tasting. Her butter makers can be seen making the butter but only she makes the curd. They were out of curd but she made a pot just for me. The place was very busy (lot of cyclists in their lycra) but we stayed for lunch as the lure of breakfast for lunch cooked by her chef mother was impossible to resist. The freshest of local eggs, slightly garlicky mushrooms, ripe tomatoes, generous rashes of local bacon and Milawa’s famous bread all washed down with fabulous fresh juice of one’s own choice.
I came home the next day as temperatures were soaring and it was just too hot for me and I had a nasty blister on one toe ! Next night my daughters came over for dinner when we sampled the cheeses and the curd (it is a unique experience and delicious as part of pre dinner nibbles). I did the prawns and scallops in Myrtleford butter of course (served with chilled Tempranillo). Declared to be fantastic – it does taste so so good. Note: they supply restaurants around the country and you can’t find it in any supermarket. You will have to go there to buy it !
(PS I also came home with coconut rough chocolate from the Beechworth Sweet shop – forgot how good it is – totally gorgeous.)
helvityni said:
During our three-year stay in Holland we often visited France, Gerard’s parents had also returned to their homeland so we always had babysitters. We hopped into our yellow kombi van and off we went.
Once returning home it happened to be a New Year or was it Easter Sunday, when we stopped in little town somewhere Southern Belgium; we must have looked like hippies as my efforts to dress-up were pretty pitiable (I always try), the locals were dressed fit for the Queen….and I still remember the food, the starched tablecloths and silver cutlery
….wonderful, and the place nothing more than village.. .:)
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helvityni said:
Nice one ,Viv, you have made me hungry and thirsty…
One year a friend organised a bus tour to Hunter Valley, on the way home (we were just a little bit tipsy), the results of the wine lottery were announced…I won a box of lovely whites, just something you want a week before Christmas….
Is it you walking out there .. I.like your handbag 🙂
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vivienne29 said:
Thank you Helvi. No, it is a pic found by our esteemed editor. I was too busy having a good time to think of taking photos. It is a lovely part of our country. From my home it is only an hour’s drive to Beechworth. The wineries are many but my friend can’t drink wine unless preservative free so it was not in order to take her to many wineries where she could not enjoy a tasting.
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vivienne29 said:
Posted a reply and lost it ! – Pic not of me – one found by our esteemed editor.
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gerard oosterman said:
Well, that was one hell of a food expedition. We’ll have to go more often to that part of the world. We have a cheese factory here in Robertson but no more cheese making. That art seems to have vanished and the factory is now a cafee and used by different shops. Well done, and a good read Viv.
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vivienne29 said:
Thanks Shoe. The NE has become famous but I am not sure how far that knowledge goes. There were some Americans at the Butter Factory who were amazed at the yellow butter and to then learn that it was natural. The whey from the butter making goes to the local piggery – nothing gets wasted.
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sandshoe said:
Lucky for me when I was a child my parents had friends we visited sometimes who were immigrants from the Orkney Isles. Mrs P regardless the heat of tropical Queensland and they lived in Innisfail so were not isolates had a spinning wheel in the corner of the lounge for her traditional spinning – I can’t think what wool now but I think sheep – but she made all their produce and their butter. Of all things butter. Getting my head around the fortune of it Viv is simply recognising even as early as the 50s everything came out of shops if you were a town kid. I recall being told very young about why the butter was not as vibrantly yellow as the butter in the shop. (The lovely silhouette of the spinning wheel is printed in my head.)
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sandshoe said:
You have done us proud, Vivienne. Someone to tell us about the produce of these wonderful places. I would never have imagined ithe essential goodness and plenty you describe. Wonderful read.
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vivienne29 said:
Shoe there are many more delights. A couple of dairy farmers in the NE decided to make their own ice cream about ten years ago. It has grown into a business – Gundowring Ice Cream – fabulous stuff but not available everywhere. All NE food places stock it and some places in Sydney and Melbourne. They began by selling it at a farmers’ grower market.
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sandshoe said:
I am in a partic grateful frame of mind for our pub, born out of natural ingredients 🙂 having not been at the pub for a cupla daze, honestly… speaking of isolates! as I was somewhere. Isolation is a chronic separation from cause and economic effect.
It surely must rain sometime. We so badly need it and the ants are making whoopee. 100s and 1000s of them scurrying all over the place and the bees are buzzing in the freshly blooming sunflowers. It is hot, hot hot, Viv. Homemade icecream would go down a treat and I ought to make some when I get my head out of writing next session of that. 🙂
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sandshoe said:
I really need a bicycle. Recent decision as the weather will be cooler soon. We have a farmer’s market in neighbouring towns, but not here. Who would ever have believed it. Occasionally I get some fresh produce given me that is distributed at a local church. My garden is getting low on produce so I will need that soon.
Viv, I have my first pumpkin ‘fructifying’ as one of my Sri Lankan friends said with a laugh, that I would need everything to do that because I only know what the seeds I planted are by that method.
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vivienne29 said:
Thanks for your posts Shoe. Hot hot hot here too – rain much needed and trees are being eaten by beetles. If you get a bicycle don’t forget to get a good basket attached to take home all your fresh produce purchases – better than dangling off the handles and banging around.
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